Choosing and Using the Right Hackle for Fly Tying
The following interview with Evan Brant of Sideling Hill Hackle first appeared in the February/March 2025 issue of Dark Skies Fly Fishing Magazine.
DSFF: How did you get into raising chickens and roosters for fly tying?
Evan Brant: My family has owned a farm since 1866. I started tying flies when I was 12, and I continued while at Penn State. I was involved in the fly fishing club there. When I realized I was going to return to the farm full time, I thought I could incorporate fly fishing into everyday life by raising birds. Initially, I just planned to raise a few for myself and some friends, but it quickly grew to about a thousand, and it just keeps expanding.
DSFF: How do you even start with something like that?
Brant: It took me about a year to find someone willing to part with the right genetics. Fly tying birds aren’t just regular barnyard chickens; they’ve been bred for feather purposes for a long time. I found a guy in Idaho who had a bloodline of birds and was selling eggs, so I bought a dozen eggs from him to start.
After some time, I met Jan Pickel, who owned Bob’s Hackle Farm in Pennsylvania. We became good friends, and he gave me eggs. Later, Charlie Collins, who owned Collins Hackle Farm, called me up. He didn’t have anyone to leave his birds to and asked me to take everything. I made several trips to New York to pick up breeders and equipment. He gave me 10 cabinet incubators and all sorts of other things. He wouldn’t accept any payment.
DSFF: How long does it take to raise a chicken from an egg to the point where it’s ready for harvest?
Brant: It depends on the bird. Some neck feathers grow in 7-8 months, while others take 10 to 12 months to mature. Saddles can take up to 18 months, but I usually don’t let mine go that long. I focus mostly on the neck feathers, like Charlie did, and by 10 to 12 months, they’re usually ready.
DSFF: Can you get both neck and saddle feathers from the same chicken, or do you need two different types of birds?
Brant: Yes and no. For Charlie’s bloodline, the neck feathers are more prominent, and the saddles aren’t as developed. The birds I originally started with were saddle-line birds, so their necks are better for streamer-grade feathers, while the saddles have long, dry fly feathers.
I test all my breeding stock to ensure the feathers will tie correctly. The visual appeal of the bird is the first thing I notice, but the real test comes when I try the feathers in my fly tying vise. If they don’t tie well or wrap properly, those birds aren’t used for breeding. I make sure each feather has the right shape and flexibility for tying.
DSFF: What is the difference between neck and saddle feathers?
Brant: Streamer-grade necks have shorter, webbier feathers. They’re not as thin or flexible as dry fly neck feathers. Dry fly necks are thinner, more uniform, and have fibers of equal length, much like a strand of spaghetti. Streamer feathers, on the other hand, have a more triangular, webby shape.
Saltwater feathers are similar to streamer feathers in that they have a webby, triangular shape. They’re longer, but not as thin as dry fly feathers. They also tend to have more webbing.
DSFF: How do you select the right hackle for the flies you’re tying?
Brant: Size and shape of the fly are more important factors than color when choosing hackle. While color can play a role, especially in slower water where trout are more selective, the size and shape of the fly matter more in my opinion
For smaller flies, you want a hackle that’s thinner and more flexible. For larger flies, you might need something with more webbing or stiffness. The key is ensuring that the hackle matches the size and style of the fly you’re tying.
DSFF: What should you look for when selecting a fly or feather for tying, particularly for dry flies? Also, what distinguishes a Grade 1 from a Grade 2 or 3?
Brant: When selecting a good hackle for dry flies, if you can examine it in person, it’s typically a better option. In the past, buying hackle was more of a gamble, especially through mail order systems. However, nowadays, necks are graded, and while the feathers might not be as long or abundant in Grade 3 hackles, they still tie dry flies effectively. For example, a Grade 3 neck will still tie great dry flies, but you’ll get fewer flies from it compared to a Grade 1.
The grades of hackle (1, 2, and 3) are mainly distinguished by the number of flies you can get from a neck. A grade 1 neck will allow you to tie many more flies than a grade 3. But for the average fly tyer, grade 2 or 3 is often perfectly fine. Grade 3 hackle still ties great flies, just not as many as grade 1. It’s all about the quantity, and the price reflects that difference.
DSFF: What’s the difference between a 3B saddle and other saddles?
Brant: A 3B saddle is essentially a low-grade option, but it can still be used to tie dry flies. It typically comes as a bundle of four saddles in different colors, offering a more economical choice for tying. While they may not be as long as high grade saddles, they still provide enough material to tie plenty of flies.
DSFF: Can you explain the difference in tying qualities between a neck and a saddle?
Brant: A saddle has a narrower range of sizes, typically covering sizes 12, 14, and 16, with a few exceptions for larger or smaller sizes. Saddles have longer feathers, which allows you to tie multiple flies from one feather. Necks, on the other hand, offer a wider range of sizes, from as small as size 24 to as large as size 6. The feathers on a neck tend to be shorter, which makes it more challenging for new tyers to work with. For beginners, saddles are often easier to use due to their longer feathers.
DSFF: What should someone look for when buying a neck or saddle for fly tying?
Brant: When selecting a neck, the most important quality is the stem. You want thin, flexible stems that don’t twist or break when wrapping them on the hook. Color variation is also important because it adds a more natural look to the fly. Insects, for example, don’t have uniform color but feature little lines and color shifts, so variant feathers often look more natural.
DSFF: What’s the difference between rooster and hen hackle?
Brant: Rooster hackle is generally stiffer and better for dry flies because the barbs help the fly float on the surface. Hen feathers, on the other hand, are softer and more webbed, making them ideal for wet flies or nymphs that go under the water. Hen saddles are often more webby and work well for smaller flies, while rooster feathers are typically longer and less webby, which is why they are preferred for dry flies.
DSFF: What advice do you have for someone just starting out in fly tying who wants to purchase hackle?
Brant: For beginners, I recommend starting with just one or two colors, such as grizzly and brown. These are versatile colors that can imitate a wide range of insects. Don’t invest in too many colors until you’ve mastered the basics of tying. Focusing on quality is key, and once you become proficient, you can begin adding more colors and experimenting with different materials.
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